Friday 20 May 2011

Rain, Roaches and... Redpoint?

Only routes were managed on this rainy day. I ended up at the Roaches with a friend called JD. It's actually the first time I've been climbing with him. I started off leading Kestrel Crack (HS 4b) and it was wet. Infact it was actually raining as we geared up and JD regailed me with the story of the first time he did Kestrel Crack. Once I was on the route is was a normal thrutching, jamming and praying that my feet would stay on wet holds affair, which I thoroughly enojyed! I'm actually glad I've not done that route before and got to do it in the wet because it was awesome. 

JD then jumped on the lead of Raven Rock Gully, left hand (VS 4c). This route was rather wet than it normally it, which had got to bump it up and grade at least. Needless to say JD had a small fall out of the goove and welded a nut into place. Instead he finished up the Raven Rock Gully, right hand in good style. I seconded it well and struggled to get out of the top chimeny exit. Top tip is to rack everything on a bandolier, then you can hand it too the leader before you squeeze out the finish.

We then bailed do to wet weather and had a couple of hours at not-so-awesome walls in Stoke. It was alright, but like normal I'm biased because I climb at redpoint. Infact I actually made it back to redpoint for the evening to help set up for a birthday party and stay behind for a few climbs (with the drytools too). 


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